Tuesday, February 9, 2010

La Matanza

Remember before I left for Spain, when I wrote that I hoped people in Sevilla would like jamón serrano as much as people in Madrid do? Well, they like it more. In fact, here they have jamón ibérico, which is supposedly even better. Serrano is to ibérico as Dunkin' Donuts is to Starbucks. I can't tell the difference, but the latter is considered to be of a higher quality and thus is much more expensive. The point here is that in order for people in Sevilla to be happy, a lot of pigs have to die. And so, my gap year group was brought to a matanza (slaughter) of a pig in the countryside this weekend. I was dreading this. Even hard-core aficionados of toreo (bullfighting), which to me, looks pretty gross, were shocked when I told them my weekend plans. "You're going to see a matanza? Those are really disgusting. You will probably be a vegetarian by Monday."

The matanza was, in fact, really disgusting. It was sad and disturbing when the pig was brought out of the truck and forced onto the slaughtering table, and it made some pretty upsetting noises. Fortunately, after it died and the carniceros (butchers) burned off its hair and skin (that was also pretty gross, for the record), it no longer looked like an animal. It looked like uncooked food. After the pig had been dismembered, we left and went to a nearby museum. It was a jamón museum. I'm telling you, they take it really seriously here.
The guy who administered the fatal cut, sharpening his knives.
I can't imagine a pig-killer looking any different, can you?

Needless to say, I'm glad the matanza is over and that there isn't another one scheduled for this semester. While this experience failed to convert me to vegetarianism, it did make me feel like puking and/or crying.

I've let the matanza overshadow our visit to Córdoba, an error which I will now try to correct because Córdoba is really quite impressive. I had studied its famous mosque-turned-cathedral in Art History last year. I was dazzled by the rows and rows of red and white arches and the delicate light that entered through high-up windows and trickled down to the floor. I had high expectations for the visit to Córdoba, and those expectations were all surpassed by miles. I will let some of my photos do the talking:

The cathedral, which was built inside the mosque. Another burn on Islam!

An example of the aforementioned red and white
arches being bathed in delicate light.


The arches and some typical Islamic architecture.
The columns are all different from one another because they were recycled--taken
from ancient ruins! Sustainability points.

El grupo!

Well, I must say hasta luego. I have dance class tonight! More on that in my next post, I promise.

3 comments:

  1. great pictures! whoa, pig slaughter. don't think I would have handled that too well either. the picture of the guy is great though. he totally looks the role.
    love the group picture! made me smile to see your face! not that I haven't been stalking you on facebook. don't worry.

    can't wait to hear more about dance classes!

    looking forward to the next post! xo

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  2. Eliza
    forgive me for using usted, but....
    Mi cupcake poco! Es muy emocionate leer sobre sus aventuras en Sevilla. Esperemos que su esperiencia en la mantanza non volvera frente a la de los placeres de bellota (o se so trato de almendras?) Que dan a los cerdes alementades con jamon iberico su sutil sabor terroso. Usted esta clarmente en camino de ser el primer escritor de viajes tipo.
    Espero que usted esta aprendiendo flamenco en sus clases de baile. Por favor, averiguer que paso con el mejor cantante de flamenco de todos los tiempos, Manitas de Plata.

    Ten ciudado esperemos que su papi y yo visitara a principios de marzo.

    Usted (tu?) esta (es?)siempre en mi corazon!

    Kiki

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  3. Whoa. Okay I'm totally impressed by all the Spanish that's going on. ELIZA i am totally loving these blog posts (blosts) and so happy to see how well you're doing! The best part of this blost? Your photo captions. You are a clever little booger.

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